Tree Services
Tree Trimming & Pruning
Good pruning keeps a tree healthy, keeps limbs off your roof and wires, and gives a storm less to grab — done by a family owned outfit in Jasper.
Cuts That Actually Help the Tree
Trimming isn’t just shortening branches. Every cut is a wound the tree has to seal, so we take the right ones — dead and broken limbs, crossing branches rubbing each other raw, weak forks that split in a storm. Take out the wrong wood and you get a weaker tree.
Most of what we do falls into a few jobs. Thinning the crown so wind and light move through instead of pushing against a solid wall of leaves. Raising the canopy so you can walk, mow, and pull the truck in. Shaping a young tree before bad habits set.
- Crown thinning to move wind and light
- Deadwood, broken limbs, and crossing branches
- Canopy raised over driveway, walk, and lawn
- Clearance cut back from roof and siding
- Bucket truck reach for tall, awkward trees
- Brush chipped and hauled off, yard raked
How it goes
What to Expect
Walk the Trees
We look at every tree you want touched, from the ground and up close, and tell you what actually needs cutting — and what’s better left alone. Free estimate, no obligation.
Set Up Safe
We rope off the drop zone and pick the approach — bucket truck for reach, the knuckleboom crane when limbs have to come out over something — based on the tree and what’s under it.
Make the Cuts
Clean cuts at the branch collar — no stubs, no bark torn on the way down. Heavy limbs come off in pieces, and the grapple lifts them out over the beds instead of through them.
Clean Up
Everything goes through the chipper and into the truck. We rake the beds, blow the drive, and leave the yard looking like we were never there.
When to Trim, and Why Topping Ruins a Tree
Late winter is the best window for most hardwoods around here. The leaves are off, so the structure is easy to read, the tree isn’t carrying a load, and the cuts seal fast once it wakes up in spring. Dead, broken, or hanging limbs are a different story — those come off whenever we find them.
What we won’t do is top a tree. Cutting a crown back to stubs doesn’t make it safer. The tree panics and throws up a mess of fast, weakly attached shoots, the open stubs rot from the top down, and in a few years you’ve got taller, heavier, worse-attached limbs over the same roof. There’s almost always a better cut, and if a tree is truly past saving, taking it down is the honest answer instead.
- Late winter — the best window for most shade trees
- Spring bloomers — trim right after they finish flowering
- Deadwood and storm damage — any time of year
- Most yard trees — worth a look every few years
- Young trees — small corrective cuts now beat big ones later
Questions
Common Questions
Less than most people expect. Leaves are how a tree feeds itself, so stripping a big share of the canopy in one shot sets it back hard. We keep it modest and spread bigger corrections over a few seasons instead of forcing it all in one visit.
Call us and we’ll come look before you touch it. Anything on the utility’s main lines is the power company’s to handle, not ours — we’ll tell you that straight and point you to who to call. For everything else on the tree, we’ll show you what can safely come off.
That’s the point of the equipment. Bucket trucks let us work from the drive instead of dragging gear across the lawn, and a knuckleboom grapple can pick a heavy limb up and out over your landscaping instead of dropping it. We’re fully insured.
No. Wound paint doesn’t speed healing, and it can trap moisture against the wood. A clean cut at the branch collar lets the tree seal itself. Where the cut lands matters far more than anything you brush on after.
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Free Estimate on Your Trees
Call (812) 482-2906 or email treeprosmanagement@gmail.com. We’ll walk your property, tell you what needs cutting, and give you a free estimate with no obligation.